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P A N U P S
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Pesticide Action Network
North America
Updates Service
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International Cooperation on Sustainable Cotton Production
December 22, 1994
In conjunction with Pesticide Action Network partners around
the world, The Pesticides Trust's Cotton Cooperation Project
is working to promote the development of sustainable
agriculture in the South by addressing problems faced by
small farmers dependent on cotton for cash. The project,
which includes research, advocacy, networking and capacity
building, focuses on developing organic cotton production as
an integral part of agro-ecological farming systems.
The Pesticides Trust (PT), a U.K. nongovernmental
organization, started the cotton project in response to
evidence collected on the adverse health and environmental
effects of pesticide use in developing countries. The
evidence indicated that cotton is a major source of
pesticide-related problems, largely because more insecticides
are used worldwide on cotton than any other crop. In
addition to the negative health and environmental effects of
pesticide use, insect pest resistance, resulting from
excessive and injudicious use of pesticides, has become a
serious threat to cotton production in many areas. Cotton is
grown in over 50 countries of the South, primarily in Africa
and Latin America, although the major producers (U.S., China,
India, Pakistan and the former USSR) account for 80% of
global cotton production.
Organic cotton is currently produced in Paraguay, Peru,
Argentina, Brazil, Egypt, India, Greece, Turkey, Australia
and the U.S. Annual production of organic cotton worldwide
is estimated at 6,000-8,000 tons and is expected to increase
by 50% in 1994. However, it is only a very small portion of
the total global production of some 20 million tons. To
date, most organic cotton is produced on fairly large farms
and involves few small farmers in developing countries. The
focus of The Pesticides Trust's Cotton Project is on small
scale producers, initially in West Africa, since organic
production has advantages for small farmers.
In November 1994, two related events were held to highlight
some of the many issues involved in sustainable cotton
production and to bring together parties involved in all
aspects of organic cotton production and sales.
A study tour, organized by The Pesticides Trust, brought
together activists and cotton producers from several
countries including Benin, Brazil, Mali, Paraguay and
Senegal. The tour introduced participants to marketing
opportunities and campaign activities in Europe and set the
groundwork for an ongoing information exchange on conversion
to organic cotton production. Contacts were made with a
variety of companies throughout Europe engaged in selling
organic cotton at various stages of production. Participants
in the tour met with wholesalers of organic cotton fiber, a
yarn trading company and designers and retailers of cotton
textiles and clothing, many of whom stated that there is not
enough organic cotton fiber, yarn and fabric currently
available to meet their needs.
At the conclusion of the tour, a conference was held in
Germany on November 25-26 to draw attention to the necessity
for a new approach to "eco" labeling of cotton textiles that
would meet the needs of both consumers and producers.
Sponsored by the group "AK Cotton Connection" and PAN Germany
in collaboration with The Pesticides Trust, the "Cotton
Connection" Conference was organized to discuss labeling
criteria in the context of the current state of cotton
production.
In response to consumer fears about chemicals in clothing,
many textile and clothing companies have developed "eco"
labels as part of their marketing strategy. In addition to
confusing consumers, these labels usually offer only limited
protection since cotton production processes are generally
not taken into account. Presentations at the conference
highlighted the large number of "eco" labels that are
currently in use, especially in Germany. The textile
industry has created many new labels in recent years in
response to consumer fears of chemical contamination and to
help boost lagging sales. Discussions at the conference
focused on the need to establish minimum labeling standards
that could be certified and that take into account cotton
production methods as well as processing. Participants felt
that such a labeling system would build consumer confidence
and also help producers.
Conference proceedings will be available from PAN Germany in
February 1995.
Source: Pesticides News 26, December 1994.
Contact: The Pesticides Trust, Eurolink Business Center, 49
Effra Road, London SW2 1BZ England; phone (44-71) 274-8895;
fax (44-71) 274-9084; email pesttrust@gn.apc.org.
PAN Germany, Nernstweg 32-34, D-22765 Hamburg, Germany; phone
(49-40) 39 39 78; fax (49-40) 390 75 20; email pan-
germany@umwelt.comlink.de.
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