In Kansas, we use Osage Orange, also known as Hedge trees. They can last 50
years or more, are extremely dense and heavy, and are a bear to handle.
I've dug some out that had been in the ground for 30 or more years, and
there was no rot. You can use them elsewhere or leave them laying under a
tree and they still last forever.
----------
>From: "Raymond R. Weil" <rw17@umail.umd.edu>
>To: sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu
>Cc: sanet-mg-digest@ces.ncsu.edu
>Subject: Re:fence locust posts
>Date: Fri, Jun 25, 1999, 7:24 AM
>
>Just a note on the use of Black Locust for fence posts. They are indeed very rot
>resistant IF the bark is peeled off before using them ( I use a draw knife or
>machete blade to do this. It comes off easily in long strips). If the bark is left
>on, bark beetles will make them susceptible to rot and they will not last nearly as
>long. The left-overs, by the way, make very good fire wood when dry, with a high
>heat energy content.
>
>Happy fencing.
>
>Ray Weil
>
>
>sanet-mg-digest wrote:
>
>> sanet-mg-digest Thursday, June 24 1999 Volume 01 : Number 1109
>>
>> In this issue:
>>
>> Re: flea beetles
>> FW: Flea Beetles - Help!!
>> FW: Re: flea beetles
>> Re: sanet-mg-digest V1 #1108
>> Re: Fencing: alternatives to treated lumber
>> Re: electric fencing
>> re:Fencing: alternatives to treated lumber
>> Re: FW: Flea Beetles - leaf washing
>>
>> See the end of the digest for information about sanet-mg-digest.
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 15:26:45 -0400
>> From: "Patricia Ruggiero" <ruggierop@earthlink.net>
>> Subject: Re: flea beetles
>>
>> I'm forwarding three messages from the OG list on combating flea beetles.
>> This is #1.
>>
>> My husband used this concoction on our eggplant seedlings and it did seem to
>> discourage the beetles.
>>
>> Pat
>>
>> - -----Original Message-----
>> From: kathleen feingold [mailto:eric@INTERBOOK.NET]
>> Sent: Saturday, May 22, 1999 5:24 PM
>> To: OGL@LSV.UKY.EDU
>> Subject: Re: Somebody's munching on my eggplants
>>
>> Hi Gardeners,
>> I'm taking the liberty of translating this for non-Spanish speakers
>> as it
>> is something that might be interesting or useful (it's something that I've
>> never heard of before, on or off this list).
>>
>> "Treat with 1/2 an onion in ten liters of water, leave it to soak for 24
>> hours, filter and apply directly on the problem."
>>
>> At 18:21 22-05-99 , Jesus Valero G wrote:
>> >Hola Norberto:
>> >
>> >Trata con 1/2 de cebolla en 10 litros de agua, dejala repozar 24 horas,
>> >filra y aplica direactamente sobre el problema.
>> >
>> >Saludos
>> >
>> >
>> >At 12:45 PM 7/05/99 -0700, you wrote:
>> >>Somebody is leaving round little (and some no so little) holes on my
>> >>eggplant leaves. Not on the perimeter but in the middle. Any ideas what is
>> >>and how to combat it (organically).
>> >>
>> >>TIA, Norberto
>> >>
>> >M.C. Jesús Valero Garza
>> >Campo Experimental Querétaro INIFAP
>> >Pasteur sur 414, 2° piso, Col. Valle Alameda
>> >C.P. 76040, Querétaro, Qro.
>> >México
>> >
>> >Tel y Fax: (42) 24-02-84
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>> To Subscribe to Digest: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "subscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 15:26:47 -0400
>> From: "Patricia Ruggiero" <ruggierop@earthlink.net>
>> Subject: FW: Flea Beetles - Help!!
>>
>> Message #3 of 3
>>
>> Pat
>>
>> - -----Original Message-----
>> From: Organic Gardening Discussion List [mailto:OGL@LSV.UKY.EDU]
>> Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 4:54 PM
>> To: OGL@LSV.UKY.EDU
>> Subject: Re: Flea Beetles - Help!!
>>
>> I don't think the DE will help with flea beetles. Here's what works for us:
>> 1. set up a good sprinkler and drench the plants with plain old water 2 x
>> per
>> day. Or hose them off if you don't have a sprinkler. The flea beetles never
>> seem to bother wet leaves.
>> 2. Cover susceptible plants as soon as you plant them. We cover eggplant,
>> collards, mustards, arugula, tatsoi with remay and SEAL all edges with soil.
>> This works wonders with the greens. We had total success with eggplants,
>> too.
>> But you have to take the covers off for pollination.
>> 3. Once the plants are big enough, they aren't bothered much by the flea
>> beetles. Even potatoes that looked completely eaten did not seem to have a
>> decrease in yield.
>> 4. Rotenone would probably work, but I don't use it.
>> Leslie Zuck
>> Pa Certified Organic
>> and
>> Common Ground Farm
>>
>> In a message dated 6/14/99 8:33:02 PM, rbfarr@erols.com wrote:
>>
>> <<Greetings, all!
>>
>> My garden is being overrun with flea beetles - not just on my peppers,
>> but on EVERYTHING.
>>
>> Going to get some Diatomaceous Earth today. But wonder what I can do to
>> prevent/conquer such outbreaks.
>>
>> I assume they're living in the grass - I'm on 10 acres of mostly
>> pasture, surrounded by 100s more. So, they're probably in the grass.
>> But I've never been inundated by one pest - usually, the problems are
>> local, and there may be several pests.
>>
>> But this year - wow! We're in a drought here, so that prob. is also to
>> blame. And last winter was mild.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks in advance -
>>
>> Robert.
>> >>
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>> To Subscribe to Digest: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "subscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 15:26:46 -0400
>> From: "Patricia Ruggiero" <ruggierop@earthlink.net>
>> Subject: FW: Re: flea beetles
>>
>> Message #2 of 3
>>
>> Pat
>>
>> - -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tony & Moira Ryan [mailto:theryans@XTRA.CO.NZ]
>> Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:55 AM
>> To: OGL@LSV.UKY.EDU
>> Subject: Re: Somebody's munching on my eggplants
>>
>> kathleen feingold wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Gardeners,
>> > I'm taking the liberty of translating this for non-Spanish
>> speakers as it
>> > is something that might be interesting or useful (it's something that I've
>> > never heard of before, on or off this list).
>> >
>> > "Treat with 1/2 an onion in ten liters of water, leave it to soak for 24
>> > hours, filter and apply directly on the problem."
>>
>> Kathleen
>>
>> Many thanks, you translators perform a valuable service for us who are
>> poor linguists.
>>
>> No, I haven't come across onion spray, though similar preparations from
>> garlic are common enough. If it acts like garlic, I would expect it to
>> be mainly an antifeedent, though I suppose it might also act against
>> some diseases, especially if the onion used has a high sulphur content.
>>
>> (apropos of which I understand that the "hottest" onions are those
>> produced under rather dry conditions.
>>
>> Moira
>> - --
>> Tony & Moira Ryan <theryans@xtra.co.nz>
>> Wainuiomata,
>> New Zealand (astride the "Ring of Fire" in the SW Pacific).
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>> To Subscribe to Digest: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "subscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 12:55:06 -0700
>> From: William Evans <williamevans@home.com>
>> Subject: Re: sanet-mg-digest V1 #1108
>>
>> Robinia pseudo-acacia---"black locust" , legume, fast growing,invasive,
>> very high rot resistance, can last 80 years in ground contact.
>> Traditional fence post of old as well as tree in the woodlot..
>> Hard, resinous, dense,strrong, tough to mill, but splitting prolly ok...
>> Dont have a source, altho am growing variety "haudenosaunee" which is
>> supposed to be very straight growing, Seems pretty vigorous sofar.
>> bill evans
>> >
>> > Fencing: alternatives to treated lumber
>> >
>> >
>> > Does anyone have any alternatives to treated wood that they've used for
>> > this type of fencing?>
>> > Thanks. > Gerry
>> >
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>> To Subscribe to Digest: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "subscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 13:00:46 -0700
>> From: Gary Matson <matson@awwwsome.com>
>> Subject: Re: Fencing: alternatives to treated lumber
>>
>> The ag department at our local junior college has a mold that they use to make
>> concrete fence posts. Reinforcing iron is placed inside before pouring the
>> concrete, and I suppose bolts or such could be embedded to provide for
>> connectivity for wire or wood strips later. For just the corners or breaks in
>> slope, they would seem to be pretty practical. I'm sure they didn't think up
>> the idea themselves, so the details must be available somewhere 'out there'.
>> - --
>> Gary Matson Far Northern California
>> http://www.plantstogo.com
>> Adapted Plants for Hot Summer Climates
>>
>> Gerry Cohn wrote:
>>
>> > I'm trying to build a permanent fence to keep goats in and various
>> > predators out. I'm looking to use woven wire, with a hot strand or two on
>> > top. All the fencebuiders in my area are insistent on using treated posts,
>> > at least for the corners.
>> >
>> > Does anyone have any alternatives to treated wood that they've used for
>> > this type of fencing?
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> >
>> > Gerry Cohn/Jessica LaMontagne
>> > 1105 W. Greensboro-Chapel Hill Road
>> > Snow Camp, NC 27349
>> > 336-376-8765
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> > "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> > "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>> > To Subscribe to Digest: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> > "subscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>> >
>> > All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> > http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
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>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 16:17:10 -0400
>> From: Craig Cramer <cdcramer@clarityconnect.com>
>> Subject: Re: electric fencing
>>
>> On Fri, 18 Jun 1999 19:50:35 -0500, "Greg & Lei Gunthorp"
>> <hey4hogs@kuntrynet.com> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > I would suggest sustainable ag connection web site. Is Craig Cramer
>> > reading for web address?
>>
>> I'm reading, Greg. It's just that I'm about a week behind. I've got links to
>> online fence-building resources at:
>>
>> http://metalab.unc.edu/farming-connection/links/fencebld.htm
>>
>> It seems like a couple of them had info about hog fencing, but most concern
>> themselves primarily with sheep and cattle.
>>
>> Hope this is helpful.
>>
>> Craig
>>
>> Craig Cramer
>> mailto:cdcramer@clarityconnect.com
>>
>> 1,000 Ways to Sustainable Farming
>> http://1000ways.baka.com
>>
>> Sustainable Farming Connection
>> http://metalab.unc.edu/farming-connection
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
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>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 13:40:48 -0700
>> From: Edna M Weigel <eweigel@juno.com>
>> Subject: re:Fencing: alternatives to treated lumber
>>
>> When we started building fences, the locals and the experts at
>> hardware and feed stores all said we had to use expensive corner posts,
>> but I found an old booklet on fencing that described a method which we
>> modified to our satisfaction.
>> Our fence is supported on metal T posts of various grades. For
>> the corners and adjacent to the corners, we made sure we used the heavier
>> grade of T post and set them no more than 8 feet between the corner and
>> its nearest neighbor. We then took an 8 foot redwood rail (nominally 2x3
>> inches--sold for redwood fences), notched each end to fit the T posts,
>> fastened some wire near each end, and secured the rail near the tops of
>> the posts. Then we wrapped 9 gage wire from the bottom of the corner
>> post diagonally to the top of the next post and back to the bottom at the
>> corner. We used a stick (scrap 1x2) to twist the 9 gage wire to pull the
>> adjacent post toward the corner. This effectively kept the corner post
>> from sagging as we tightened the fence wire. (Sometimes we had to give
>> the 9 gage wire a few extra twists as we pulled the fencing tight just to
>> keep the corner post vertical.)
>> Any rigid post or beam could work in place of the rail for the
>> brace. In one case, we ran out of rails and used an ordinary 2x4. They
>> are exposed to the weather but are not in contact with the soil so should
>> last indefinitely in our arid climate. The rails were satisfactory
>> although a few bent shortly after installation, so don't look as nice as
>> they might.
>> This method also works to brace gate posts, for which we usually
>> used 4x4 cedar lumber from Sutherlands or Home Depot.
>> Happy fencing. Edna
>>
>> ___________________________________________________________________
>> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
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>> "subscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 16:02:24 -0500
>> From: "Pat Elazar" <Pat_Elazar@cwb.ca>
>> Subject: Re: FW: Flea Beetles - leaf washing
>>
>> Up here, we are mostly bothered by flea beetles during very dry springs. So the
>> leaf washing tactic makes some sense to me on brassicas anyways. I'd be real
>> careful about any foliage wetting of nightshades tho- it might cause more
>> problems with disease than it solves with pests. This season has been cold &
>> rainy; cold & dry; hot & dry; AND hot & humid in successive weeks! Some local
>> mkt gardeners had to spray early brocoli & cabbage transplants because of flea
>> beetles & I saw graduate student's family plots at the university devastated but
>> I didn't see any damage at all in my garden. We've been harvesting spinach &
>> oriental fry greens since May 22, brocoli since June 14. I'd like to believe
>> that the relative absence of pests in an otherwise troublesome year is due to
>> the massive amount of soil improvement we've done here... On the other hand, It
>> could just be dumb luck...
>>
>> "Patricia Ruggiero" <ruggierop@earthlink.net> on 06/24/99 02:26:47 PM
>>
>>
>>
>> To: "Sustainable Agriculture" <sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu>
>>
>> cc:
>>
>>
>>
>> Subject: FW: Flea Beetles - Help!!
>>
>>
>> Message #3 of 3
>>
>> Pat
>>
>> - -----Original Message-----
>> From: Organic Gardening Discussion List [mailto:OGL@LSV.UKY.EDU]
>> Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 4:54 PM
>> To: OGL@LSV.UKY.EDU
>> Subject: Re: Flea Beetles - Help!!
>>
>> I don't think the DE will help with flea beetles. Here's what works for us:
>> 1. set up a good sprinkler and drench the plants with plain old water 2 x
>> per
>> day. Or hose them off if you don't have a sprinkler. The flea beetles never
>> seem to bother wet leaves.
>> 2. Cover susceptible plants as soon as you plant them. We cover eggplant,
>> collards, mustards, arugula, tatsoi with remay and SEAL all edges with soil.
>> This works wonders with the greens. We had total success with eggplants,
>> too.
>> But you have to take the covers off for pollination.
>> 3. Once the plants are big enough, they aren't bothered much by the flea
>> beetles. Even potatoes that looked completely eaten did not seem to have a
>> decrease in yield.
>> 4. Rotenone would probably work, but I don't use it.
>> Leslie Zuck
>> Pa Certified Organic
>> and
>> Common Ground Farm
>>
>> In a message dated 6/14/99 8:33:02 PM, rbfarr@erols.com wrote:
>>
>> <<Greetings, all!
>>
>> My garden is being overrun with flea beetles - not just on my peppers,
>> but on EVERYTHING.
>>
>> Going to get some Diatomaceous Earth today. But wonder what I can do to
>> prevent/conquer such outbreaks.
>>
>> I assume they're living in the grass - I'm on 10 acres of mostly
>> pasture, surrounded by 100s more. So, they're probably in the grass.
>> But I've never been inundated by one pest - usually, the problems are
>> local, and there may be several pests.
>>
>> But this year - wow! We're in a drought here, so that prob. is also to
>> blame. And last winter was mild.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks in advance -
>>
>> Robert.
>> >>
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg". If you receive the digest format, use the command
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>> To Subscribe to Digest: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the command
>> "subscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
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>>
>> All messages to sanet-mg are archived at:
>> http://www.sare.org/htdocs/hypermail
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of sanet-mg-digest V1 #1109
>> *******************************
>>
>> To Unsubscribe: Email majordomo@ces.ncsu.edu with the comannd
>> "unsubscribe sanet-mg-digest".
>
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