Re: Cover Crop Incorporation

Paul Schmitmeyer (ps@erinet.com)
Thu, 13 May 1999 19:59:19 -0400

Hi Sanetters,
On Floyd's problems with incorporating his biomass from the rye and vetch,
the tool of choice is Definately a Miller offset disc. You may be able to
pull a 13 footer but may have to go down to a 10 footer. Normal conditions,
two passes and you can plant. That much mulch and you may need aditional
passes. Pulls hard first time or two, but I think you will be pleased.
We have used it on Giant Ragweed high as tractor cabs and it worked
great!!! ........ (I was pleasantly surprised at the time!)

Good Luck
Paul Schmitmeyer

-----Original Message-----
From: Bluestem Associates <bluestem@webserf.net>
To: sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu <sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:24 AM
Subject: Cover Crop Incorporation

>On Tue, 11 May 1999 22:41:27 -0500, Floyd Johnson wrote:
>
>> I am looking for an implement that will incorporate residue (Rye
>>(sometimes waist high), hairy vetch, red clover, etc.) into the top 4
>>inches of soil (mostly silt loams) without causing a lot of grief .
>
>A large part of your problem has been that you're trying to incorporate
>rye that is *much* too mature. Ideally you should nail it at about 8
>inches high. Wet springs will certainly mess up that approach.
>
>The problem with rye taller than about 10 inches isn't the top, but
>rather the root balls. They get in the way of planters and can be quite
>aggravating if impaled on the rotary hoe. In organic soybean production
>the rotary hoe is one of your best friends. By the time rye is waist
>high it is fairly slow to digest in the soil, causing another set of
>problems.
>
>Depending on circumstances and time available you could harvest the
>tops for bedding/low-grade hay, you could mow/chop them (big flail
>mower) and then disc the whole mess in. Or no-till into the stubble
>might be an option depending on how far south in the state you are ---
>in which case shift your beans to a *higher* group number. That's a bit
>counter-intuitive but the later you plant the shorter days you'll have
>at key phases in the crop's life, and higher group beans do better with
>shorter days.
>
>The main thing with rye is to get it early in the spring if you
>possibly can. It will avoid a lot of the dancing around described in
>the previous paragraph.
>
>Organic farming in a wet season is not a lot of fun --- and you'll look
>way worse than the neighbors. On the other hand, *conventional*
>farming is more of a challenge in a drought, and your place with look a
>bunch better than theirs.
>
>
>
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